Photographed by Phil Oh
“Fashion needs energy. Fashion needs sometimes to scratch at a sore—rip off a scab, rip off a plaster. And, you know, no one’s talked about Gucci in a long time.” That’s what Net-a-Porter VP of global buying Sarah Rutson said just days after Alessandro Michele’s Gucci debut last February, when he unveiled a collection that reportedly came together in a matter of weeks. Last Fall, Rutson offered that the house had become the luxury titan’s top seller next to Saint Laurent, and tomorrow Michele will send forth his latest lineup—surely destined to be as much of a hit in retail as those that came before it.
The rehabilitation of the storied house’s financial stakes has become a chief interest for parent company Kering—an interest that, teamed with the sheer covetability and modishness of Michele’s ready-to-wear and accessories, has paid off. After a rocky two years, the brand posted a 4.6 percent boost to its second-quarter sales, improbably after only a few months of Michele’s reinvention efforts. Beyond the numbers, and at the risk of stating the obvious: Gucci is just plain cool right now. You didn’t have to be sitting front row at shows this month to notice the profusion of Michele’s shaggy, kangaroo-lined old-guard loafers, of the knife-pleated frocks in that gleefully patrician-looking wallpaper floral, or quietly logo-laden handbags trimmed more remarkably in big bees and snakes. Here are pieces that haven’t had ample time to gather even a speck of dust on stockists’ shelves, thanks to a lush, cornucopian quality that makes them easy to lose yourself in. For this writer and a whole lot of her peers, it’s that profusion that is so appealing.
Click through the slideshow above to see all the ways well-heeled industry types were wearing Gucci at the shows.
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