Mulberry pre-fall 2017 collection

mulberry pre-fall 2017 collection
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Great bags, great shoes. Best to reassure the folks back at Mulberry HQ their all-important accessories business will do just fine next season, before going on to note this afternoon’s show by the brand was a bit of a puzzle. It was plain enough that Johnny Coca, the brand’s creative director, was enamored of the oh-so-English heritage codes that dominate the Mulberry vernacular; it was less clear what message he was trying to send by means of them.

The home counties references dominated this collection, from the generous helping of brownish check to the quilted capes inspired by horse blankets. Evening looks had a bit of the black-tie-for-dinner manner that’s custom at country houses after a shoot. But for all the familiarity of these motifs, they had an alien effect here, thanks to Coca’s preference for attenuated or vastly oversize proportions. To wit, Thatcherite check skirt suits paired with pussybow blouses featured oddball hemlines and strangely exaggerated shoulders. (It must be noted the Iron Lady herself never required an exaggerated jacket shoulder to assert her presence in a room.) The evening dresses, which featured some magnificent fabrications, were distended to such a degree they almost completely effaced the underlying female form—an effect amplified by Coca’s eiderdown-like blanket capes. In theory, this kind of space-taking should read as authoritative, but as a general matter, there wasn’t enough of a sense of specificity to Coca’s silhouettes to see anything except, well, largeness.

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